Name: Brainstorm Design 2019: Digital Couture
Uploaded: 2019-03-21
Duration: 18 min 3 s
Description: Somarta’s creative director shares how a combination of technology and the human hand are essential to her design process.

When I first saw [ UNKNOWN ] designs, I must say, I was really struck by how beautiful and different they were. So I thought, the person who designs these clothes must really have loved clothes from a young age, and grown up wanting to be a fashion designer. Tamae is that why you became a fashion designer? Were you really into clothes as you were growing up? [ FOREIGN ] The first I loved painting a picture very mcuh. So first I like to be the profession as a artist. But actually I didn't have any intention to be the artist as a painter. So, actually there are so many people who are that good at painting a picture, so I thought I wonder why. So in this case at the time I was very interested in [ INAUDIBLE ] So female, the makeup, so- called, the makeup or the hairstyle, and the change in the clothing. And the female tends to be a completely different person. I'm interested in [ UNKNOWN ]. And then the person [ UNKNOWN ] Is, [ BLANK_AUDIO ] Utilizing the purity of the painting. And also the people can put [ UNKNOWN ] and it makes the people so happy. So I decided to be the fashion designer [ UNKNOWN ]. Weren't really into fashion to begin with. [ FOREIGN ] [ FOREIGN ] [ FOREIGN ] [ FOREIGN ] Yes, and I went to the [ UNKNOWN ] College. I went to that [ UNKNOWN ] school and since danced. So from then, from the [ UNKNOWN ] I start to learn that [ UNKNOWN ] at the time and people, the student [ UNKNOWN ] and the people [ UNKNOWN ] Born and raised in Tokyo. And I was born in the regional area. So I thought that I was a very fashionable but actually among the [ FOREIGN ] and the students. There are so many fashionable people. So I thought that I was very shocked. I was not so fashion. So that from the scratch I To do what I should be, so I like to go so slowly. Intereting that Tamiya didn't start out really wanting to become a fashion designer, but somehow found herself in the position of fashion designer responsible for network. [ FOREIGN ] Can you tell us a little bit about your experiences at [ UNKNOWN ]. [ FOREIGN ] Well when I decided to work at [ UNKNOWN ] at the company and then the, I was assigned to be the [ UNKNOWN ] in designing and then I had to started to the design [ UNKNOWN ] a scratch. [ FOREIGN ] Yes, when I would start as a student, I didn't have the knowledge or anything at all. But I happen to join the company, and my boss was the new designer, and she Want to leave about one and a half months later, so I happened to be the new designer. So it was the start of the new design, so coincidentally, I was first. Wants to become a fashion designer. One lesson to learn from [ UNKNOWN ] experience is that You don't actually have to be able to sew maybe. [ FOREIGN ] Sort of ask you about your design concept and your philosophy. [ FOREIGN ] Well, so I must share from the physical. And so, so many times I tend to start to have that image from body so the clothing is a kind a second cloth so the The where in kind of the second skin that I'm putting so the from the stretch I decided to business and then why making clothes, there are so many clothes, but ultimately Close I'd like to make, so to do that, and say that language and races. But overcome suppressing such a thing, I'd like to share something in common. So I decided to make the second [ UNKNOWN ] to illustrate this. Can we have the first set of slides please. Yes and right the human body is first skin, and then the second skin, and then the body and also the internal organs and also The top of this. And the second skin is pulled so I'm thinking that everything. And then the skin is so up til now ethnic and the races and also here in Japan. And then we had the tattoo or the [ UNKNOWN ], the culture. And so the person did [ UNKNOWN ] cultures [ UNKNOWN ] the human beings. So essentially I'm interested in [ UNKNOWN ] it might be their transform into [ UNKNOWN ]. It might be very interesting so I thought that it would be a very good opportunity to expand the fashion. And [ FOREIGN ] He has and for example in the India and the henna tattoo and the United States and the other fashion. And some of the people put the tattoo and say that the [ UNKNOWN ] once they are putting on tattoo and it difficult to believe who that. A. [ UNKNOWN ] But instead that the fashion of the condo and the conduct too what are the products of times and it might be the. [ UNKNOWN ] Pass to the design and can be put and remove across again and up to now and the human being tend to express the. [ UNKNOWN ] So by using [ UNKNOWN ] we can express our impression by [ UNKNOWN ]- Of one of your skin series. Yeah, so this is a skin series that I had made [ UNKNOWN ] muscle and the wrapping. This is example, or the mannequin About how you actually come up with the design of this, it's a body suit, isn't it? Body suit. Do you start from the body, or the head? How do you create the whole Also you nailed on a cut it. Yes and this one all the human being is not the case of the dress because so everyone and I going to that the eyes of body size and then that it will be designed and then it will be called. Are these the kind of clothes that I understand your fans, you have among your fans, Lady Gaga and Madonna? [ FOREIGN ] Yes, [ FOREIGN ] That's similar and growth in the know that the moment that 106 degrees so it can be that to the person especially at. [ UNKNOWN ] And the performers other time I didn't expect it at all but let's say the. [ UNKNOWN ] Functionality. [ UNKNOWN ] it was respected on the [ UNKNOWN ] for such performers. And also the skin itself, has that kind of texture. So the texture, [ UNKNOWN ] the texture. That as a skin series, they can be expressed, so that by using several seasons, I studied [ UNKNOWN ] to the concept. Take a look at the skin series clothes on the mannequins over here. Do you wanna go over and Yes I can do. Here are the skin series. And as you can see, there is no stitching, so completely seamless. And you see the body position itself is already decided. So based on the body structure, we create a design, a knitting structure. So as you can see, depending on the structure of a Thing the colors are different, way to cover thing area. It's the small blind and white comes to more solid area it looks darker. So I mentioned about the concept apply in a different department what is king? So in this skin series, it's looks like apply in cosmetics. And wearing make- up to express the different types of skin structure. So when it comes here, we are unable to sell as a product as a whole, so we are actually I'm actually into this in clothes or tights, panty hose, and other things. So originally when it come to skin series I focused on some king and this came out of this design. But since this first kind of limit to express Express about fitting to the body. So when we see our clothes, we can see this dress, or Art. And people prefer to be something more comfortable rather than completely fit into your skin and body. So since we use a machine which did not create any Stretching and a completely, so get it completely seamless. So it comes from the traditional western style of a cloth making. We prepare the clothes and making a pattern, and then make a clothe itself. That is a regular process of the cloth making. However, when it comes to Japan's traditional cloth, we had a kimono. Where we had a kimono We actually keep the completely a flat cloth. So I actually combined two different methodology coming from western culture and also Japanese culture. This is the works of the tailor to check it. Usually the exterior and interior of the clothes were made separately, and then they are actually attached to each other. But with this case series, interior and as the exterior clothes were Are created together so they all completely united. Even for the pocket we instructed [ UNKNOWN ] to grip like this and when you look at their inner, it looks like a more smooth area. So it's quite simple. [ BLANK_AUDIO ] Someone like me, I can't sew at all. Certainly can't knit. Something like that looks like it might be very difficult to make. Does this require very high technology? [ FOREIGN ] Yes, So, originally, and 18- bay machine and so on, we were using the best of technology. But we did not, it's not like using the state of the art technology. The state or art machine, we hold a punch card created by wood. Recently we operate this as our punch card. In the paper, there are some Some password and codes, and we were applying that to the [ UNKNOWN ] and we this kind of clause. And that has me influenced a lot. So [ UNKNOWN ] has me influenced a lot. That idea coming from human being is the same. Now called digital culture. [ FOREIGN ] Yes, when it comes to cloth making in modern era, cloth making has not being changed from the ancient cloth making which was invented in western culture. [ BLANK_AUDIO ] [ UNKNOWN ] I actually questioned to the point Why there is no change about the girls making. So I thought we can apply the new technology. That's what they started to do. This is actually part of Deus Couture, the starting for men's tailored jacket. So by looking at the closest [ UNKNOWN ] rather than [ UNKNOWN ] clothes making, we can apply different [ UNKNOWN ] of making. And the clothes itself is a material. A material itself is clothes. [ UNKNOWN ] is clothes. We All of them are connected closely to each other, so knitting and also coloring of the clothes. So we apply actually exactly the same method for the tailored jacket and also the yellow dress I'm currently wearing. But just changing the knitting structure, knitting way, we can actually play in different ways. Beautiful patterns and colors. Where do you get your ideas? What inspries you to design these beautiful patterns? [ FOREIGN ] So as for the inspiration I love to travel. The way I come visit Singapore. I take a [ INAUDIBLE ] Singapore. And try to see the people's live here. They inspire me a lot for my cloth making. Futuristic in a way, what do you think about the future of fashion, do you think that it's going to become much more technology based? So in Japan, nowadays, people who are called artisans Getting out of us ages so unfortunately we are unable to use their craftsmanship so much. However, although we have a new different [ UNKNOWN ] people's mind are the same. There is and the base in the people's mine and then there's a Massey and then went to create your clothes. Although there would be more state- of- the- art technology coming in the fashion industry, there is so many areas were haunted by manual by human beings hands. [ BLANK_AUDIO ] So I think the basic won't be chained in the future. Actual sort of sewing and knitting after all that. Unless you can sew or knit, it's difficult to become a designer. Can that be left up to a machine or Is it absolutely necessary to have the human hand as well? [ FOREIGN ] Yes, by applying human hand That don't make a difference. Even with this one we could [ UNKNOWN ] first and then artisans actually create the patterns for the, knitting patterns. And depending on the sense of the artisan, craftsman. There outcome will be completely different and Japanese craftsmen are, our designs are working quite into the details so we can see a beautiful creature as a result. So design sense of the workers Affects the way the dress or textile comes out? Could you please tell me more about that? Well, [ BLANK_AUDIO ] We Request the craftsman by showing in this graphic data, that the interpretation is by the craftsman or the artisans. So based on the graphic data, the craftsman, creates The course itself so depending on the regiment interpretation [ BLANK_AUDIO ] outcome would be different so we always have a deep discussion with them So [ UNKNOWN ] understands our idea better we can create a better one. That you can't just make it anywhere in the world. [ FOREIGN ] [ FOREIGN ] Are there any reasons why you wanted to focus in Japan, or? Originally we had a kimono, that was our traditional clothes. So there were so many craftmen who were making kimono in Many different regions. but nowadays we don't [ UNKNOWN ] so much. However, focus to our history, we can create so many different types of cross. And there are so many different types of [ UNKNOWN ]. But they all, they They believe in the importance to succeed ideas to the next generations. [ BLANK_AUDIO ] No, I don't see any hands. Do you have a question? No? Okay well thank you very much, Tamia, thank you. [ APPLAUSE ] [ BLANK_AUDIO ]

Brainstorm Design 2019: Digital Couture

Design

Somarta’s creative director shares how a combination of technology and the human hand are essential to her design process.